Introduction
Ankara fabric is one of the most exciting materials you can work with as a sewer - bold, vibrant, and full of personality. But if you've never sewn with African wax print before, it can feel a little intimidating. The good news? Ankara is actually one of the most beginner-friendly fabrics once you understand its characteristics. This complete guide walks you through everything you need to know to start sewing with Ankara confidently.
Ankara Sewing Essentials: Tools, Tips & Techniques
Understanding Ankara Fabric Before You Sew
What Makes Ankara Different
Ankara is a 100% cotton wax print fabric with several characteristics that affect how you sew with it:
- Stiffness: Ankara is stiffer than regular cotton due to the wax coating. This softens with washing and wearing.
- Weight: Medium weight - heavier than quilting cotton but lighter than denim.
- Bold patterns: Large, graphic patterns require careful planning to match at seams.
- Colour fastness: New Ankara may bleed colour in the first few washes - always pre-wash before sewing.
- Fraying: Ankara frays at cut edges, so finish seams carefully.
Pre-Washing Your Ankara
Always pre-wash your Ankara before cutting and sewing. This removes excess dye, pre-shrinks the fabric, and softens the stiffness slightly. Wash in cold water separately, then press flat while slightly damp before cutting.
Essential Tools for Sewing Ankara
What You'll Need
- Sharp fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Universal or sharp sewing machine needles: Size 80/12 or 90/14
- Polyester thread
- Fabric weights or pins
- Iron and pressing cloth
- Seam ripper
Choosing the Right Ankara for Your Project
Best Ankara for Beginners
Start with a medium-weight 100% Cotton Ankara Wax Print - 5 Yards. Large-scale patterns are actually easier for beginners because they're easier to match and the bold design hides minor imperfections. Our 100% Cotton Ankara Wax Print - Multicolor gives you enough fabric to make a full garment with room for mistakes.
How Much Fabric to Buy
- Simple skirt: 2 yards
- Blouse or top: 2–3 yards
- Dress: 3–4 yards
- Wide-leg trousers: 2.5–3 yards
- Jumpsuit: 4–5 yards
Pattern Matching with Ankara
The Most Important Skill
The bold patterns of Ankara require careful matching at seams for a professional finish:
- Lay your pattern pieces on the fabric and identify where the pattern will meet at each seam.
- Cut one piece, then use it as a guide to position the matching piece so the pattern aligns at the seam line.
- Pin carefully and check the match before sewing.
- Sew slowly and check alignment as you go.
Sewing Techniques for Ankara
Seam Finishing Options
- Serger/overlocker: Fastest and most professional finish
- Zigzag stitch: Works well on a standard sewing machine
- French seams: Encloses the raw edge completely
- Bias binding: Adds a decorative finish
Pressing and Hemming
Press seams open or to one side as you sew using a medium-hot iron and a pressing cloth. For hems, a double-fold hem (fold up 1/4 inch, then fold up again 1/2 inch) works beautifully and stays crisp. Press the hem before sewing for the cleanest result.
Best Beginner Projects for Ankara Fabric
Start Simple and Build Confidence
- Elastic waist skirt: Just two rectangles and an elastic waistband - perfect first project
- Headwrap: No sewing required - just cut and hem
- Tote bag: Simple construction, no fitting required
- Pillowcase: Great for practising pattern matching
- A-line skirt: Introduces darts and a zip
5 Easy Ankara Projects for Beginners: Step-by-Step Overview
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use Ankara fabric in a regular sewing machine?
Absolutely. Ankara sews beautifully on any standard sewing machine. Use a universal or sharp needle in size 80/12 or 90/14, and a medium stitch length (2.5–3mm).
Does Ankara shrink when washed?
Ankara can shrink slightly, especially in hot water. Always pre-wash in cold water before cutting to remove any shrinkage before you sew.
How do I stop Ankara from fraying?
Finish all cut edges immediately after cutting - either with a serger, zigzag stitch, or by applying fray check to the edges.
Can I use Ankara for quilting?
Yes - Ankara makes stunning quilts with bold, graphic impact. Pre-washing softens it considerably and makes it easier to work with.
Where can I buy Ankara fabric for sewing in the USA?
At Àròkò Designs, we ship authentic Ankara fabric directly to the USA, Canada, UK, and Europe in 5-yard cuts - perfect for most sewing projects.
Final Thoughts
Sewing with Ankara is one of the most rewarding fabric experiences you can have. Start with a simple project, take your time with pattern matching, and enjoy the process. Once you start sewing with Ankara, you won't be able to stop. Browse our full Ankara collection to find your perfect fabric today.
